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In the Philly suburbs, Ambler is known for having a strong dining scene. But even with excellent sushi, creative Peruvian offerings, and more downtown, a James Beard-nominated chef brings a completely different level of culinary notoriety to the area. When chef Dionicio Jimenez opened La Baja about a year ago, we couldn’t wait to try it.
There is no easy way to categorize La Baja. At its heart, this 30-seat BYOB is Mexican. But it’s the influences of cuisines from around the world—namely Asian and Mediterranean—that make it truly distinctive.
We’ve visited the restaurant several times over the past year. The experience has been excellent each time. Service is helpful and attentive, and with three or four specials in addition to the printed menu, there is always a variety of dishes we haven’t tried before.
The space is compact with an open kitchen and seating close enough to speak to your neighbors. And talk people do. Everyone always wants to know what the colorful dishes are on the next table over as they contemplate what to order.
On the menu, we’ve found both solid standbys and unforgettable dishes. The avocado “ravioli” is absolutely our go-to. Thin slices of avocado take the place of pasta and wrap around a mound of crab and bacon. The combination is accented by recado negro (a smoky Mayan seasoning) and xnipec salsa that’s built on habaneros and vinegar. It’s creative, flavorful, and unlike anything we’ve had elsewhere. We order it on every visit. By contrast, the burrata with black mole was tasty, though not especially memorable compared to everything else.
Seafood is another strength. It should have come as no surprise since we love the aguachiles at Jimenez’s other restaurant, Cantina la Martina in Kensington.
A ceviche of blue shrimp combined with tomato, peppers, and pickled jalapeños and topped with tomato granita was bright and refreshing. The tender grilled octopus that came swimming in black garlic aguachile with pineapple sorbet was also a favorite in all its spicy goodness.
Fish specials are always worth a look. On one visit, halibut in yellow curry was so extraordinary that we begged for it to become a permanent menu item. Alas, it’s not yet.
Among heartier plates, the short rib braised in hibiscus and Mexican chocolate that comes over risotto was rich and satisfying, though I did want sharp note to balance the heaviness. Our perennial favorite is the stuffed rellena. It is also a must on every visit. The dried pepper is filled with scallop and chorizo and sits in a green curry broth. It’s layered and spicy in all the right ways.
Even the sides are worth talking about. My husband raved about the roasted Brussels sprouts, while I favored the costillas de elote—corn ribs dressed in walnut cream, preserved lemons, and tan tan dust. Messy to eat, perhaps, but worth it.
One thing we’ve yet to try is dessert. The poblano tres leches is a beloved house specialty, but by the time we finish exploring the savory dishes, we’re always too full to indulge.
La Baja is a BYOB with a twist: bring tequila or rum, and they’ll mix you a margarita or mojito for just $7. If you forget to bring alcohol, there is both a liquor store and a winery just down the street.
Overall, La Baja is excellent. It’s a distinctive spot that delivers unexpected flavors and combinations from across cultures. We look forward to going back, again and again, to see what new creations Chef Jimenez brings to the table.
La Baja is located at 9 N. Main Street in Ambler.