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In a city full of incredible restaurants, it’s easy to get swept up in the buzz of the newest spots that are making waves. But that tendency means we sometimes overlook truly special spots that have stood the test of time. Case in point: Helm. It’s a crime that this was our first visit.
This special BYOB in Kensington opened in 2015 and is still going strong with its focus on locally sourced ingredients. The creative flavor combinations, attentive service, and relaxed atmosphere ensure that we’ll be back again soon.
An Ever-changing Menu Full of Highlights
We’re planners. When we make a reservation, we scour the menu and have key dishes in mind in advance. That goes out the window when the online menu hasn’t been updated in three years and you know it changes frequently anyway (check their Instagram for the latest lineup). No matter what, we were in for something unexpected.
Helm’s blackboard menu is unlike most. Instead of lengthy descriptions, each dish is pared down to just two or three ingredients. Any further details—and there are plenty—come from the server. It’s an interesting approach that, for us, led to a lot of conversation with our server and the chance to get her opinion on favorite dishes.
On our visit, the dishes were a perfect blend of creativity and flavor. We started out with one of the few menu items that’s been around for a decade—a tangle of carrots with chèvre and sauce Basquaise. With lots of smoke and a little heat, it lived up to its legendary status. Somehow our second appetizer, a samosa with zucchini, tahini, and fava bean, was even more outstanding.
For entrees, we opted for one described on the board as “scallops, tomatoes, macadamia.” What we received was a bowl full of scallops and burst cherry tomatoes on a macadamia tartar sauce. The unanticipated seafood fritters were a slightly crunchy counterpoint to seared scallops. I’ve never had anything like it and savored every bite.
We also chose the roasted pork, which came with a hash of sausage, peach, and zucchini—essentially pork two ways. The generous portion was well-sauced and delicious. We were full by this point, but we didn’t want to miss out on dessert, so we took home the decadent chocolate tart with burnt marshmallow mousse, banana caramel, and plums. It was the perfect way to end our night (just a few hours later).
The vibe at Helm is casual and unpretentious, a true neighborhood spot with nothing stuffy about it. Lots of natural light fills the dining room, and while the space can get a little loud, the energy matches the warm, friendly service. One of the chefs even visited our table when we had a question about one of the dishes, which was a lovely personal touch.
Helm offers a three-course prix fixe menu with the option to add sides, though you can also order a la carte. It feels like a splurge but isn’t—especially considering the quality and care in every dish.
Simply put, Helm was exceptional. The dishes were unique, and at $60 for three courses, the value is hard to beat (you can also order a la carte). It’s a good thing the menu changes frequently because it’s incentive to come back.
Helm is located at 1303 N. Fifth St. in Kensington.